Johannesburg - A collection of rivulets along the Biyamiti river, where a lazy bend redirects the waterway through dense, coarse sand, glimmered in the winter breeze.
The distinct kon-koweet of a Gorgeous Bushshrike held the afternoon rhythm in the huge Fig tree that shaded us, its roots old enough to hold up the steep bank and beach-terrace where a fire-bowl smouldered. Our every sense prickled in what felt like the stillest patch of Africa.
It’s along Lowveld rivers such as this that Percy Fitzpatrick and his faithful dog Jock, while exploring trade routes, took rest as night fell. In the same way Fitzpatrick would have done more than a century ago, camp manager Dumisane Msimango and his men out-spanned at a place close to water and a romantic setting.
When we arrived by Landie at Jock Explorer’s Camp the day before, we were escorted on foot through bush. With only a windmill to hint at any civilisation, it was surprising to be led to a large canvas dining tent where high tea awaited us.
Jock Explorer’s is remote and intimate – a bush experience full of luxurious surprises.
Like the traders, we set out morning and evening on explorative walks into the uncertain bush. A Honeyguide accompanied us on our first evening tramp, and the rangers, armed with rifles, kept our attention by letting us taste wild cucumber and koeboe berries, and sniff fresh rhino dung. With the swish of grass around our ankles and the occasional jump over a river stream, we rounded the camp just when the sun burned pink between the Leadwood and Tamboti trees that marked the river’s edge.
Although the outfit can host up to six guests, there were only four of us during our stay. We shared our camp with a couple from Pretoria.
The team at Jock Explorer’s pride themselves on seeing to a guest’s every quirk. The brunch served after our morning walks, and lavish fireside dinners were everything you would expect of luxury lodge fare.
Jock Safari Lodge is the largest and first concession in Kruger, and has now inventively grown its brand – which until now offered a 24-sleeper main lodge and a six-sleeper private lodge – to offer an intimate interaction with nature.
Beholden to the park in many respects, the temporary Jock Explorer’s will function between May and October, in the cooler months, said Msimango.
“Even though it is a challenge, we plan to move the camp every few months to ensure we don’t put a footprint here so the bush can rehabilitate,” he said.
Msimango has had to conform to safety standards and ensure park recycling tenets are adhered to. Provision is made for a helicopter to land and communication lines are secured.
Msimango is a keen and confident leader, and seemed intuitively to know our needs – radioing ahead for sundowners, filling our showers with piping hot water, and slowing his step when the walk tired us.
Attention to detail and a personalised experience is the aim of the trails camp, the third one in the Shamwari group.
Louis Strauss, general manager of Jock Lodge, said: “At Jock we wanted to bring in the history of the 1800s explorer days as it would fit in with the concept of Jock Safari Lodge and Fitzpatrick’s. The tents have been designed around photographs I came across of the early explorers who visited Africa, and specifically the Kruger area. We made sure everything resembled that era, like the old wooden chests, steel beds, canvas and wash basins.”
On Saturday evening, Msimango drove us out to “flat rock”, a popular wedding spot. On this expansive granite slab overlooking the lowveld, we enjoyed snacks and drinks.
The ride brought us up close to plenty of rhino, plains game and, on the way home, a Giant Eagle owl.
Evenings we sat around the fire eating venison, drinking wine and nibbling cheese, while we listened to Msimango’s stories of 20 years working as a ranger.
But it was the static afternoons that will remain in my soul. What Msimango called “siesta time” heralded a break in the glorious day, when we rested in our colonial tents, or simply sat and listened to the stillness. All explorers need chill time.
Fitzpatrick recalls lazy mid-day intervals in Jock of the Bushveld: “The day was hot and still and when breakfast was over we got into the shade of the wagons, some to sleep and others to smoke.”
And while the traders “roughing” it along the route to Delagoa Bay retired to wagons, Jock Explorer guests can escape to a carpeted gazebo with en suite bathroom. At night we collapsed in a comfortable bed, cradling a hot water bottle. But not before having a piping hot “bucket shower” with only the moon for company.
Need to know if you go:
l There is very limited cell signal- which is great because you can notice bird calls better when there is an audible silence: no electronic beeps and rings!
l Walking clothes are a must- and shoes that are waterproof are recommended.
My rock spider’s sandals were great to jump puddles as, unless you are athletically inclined, stepping in river water is almost guaranteed.
l Prices are more affordable than the Lodge rates, so Explorer’s is a great option on a budget, with all food and drink included.
l The trips are run every second weekend and the “experience” runs over a two-day weekend from Friday lunch to Sunday lunch, to accommodate transfers to and from the camp
l Safety is paramount at the outdoor camp – at night a temporary electric fence is rolled out around the tents and the staff accompany you to and from your tent.
l The Jock concession is in the South of the Kruger. Travelling, one has to enter at the Malelane gate and the drive to the main lodge takes less than an hour after that. The trip takes between five and six hours from Johannesburg. - Saturday Star