Malelane, Mpumalanga - Just when you begin to wonder if the roller-coaster road with its hairpin bends is indeed the “highway to hell” as a fellow passenger in the 4x4 gleefully quipped, the vehicle reaches its final destination and it’s just the opposite: a heavenly paradise high up in the foothills of the Drakensberg Mountains, tucked away between huge cycads, indigenous trees and granite outcrops.
Bongani Mountain Lodge near Malelane, Mpumalanga, is a very special place indeed… different because of its up-in-the-sky location, from other luxury game lodges.
And that made it the perfect venue for tastings of premium wines from two boutique Cape wine estates.
The brainchild of exclusive tour operator Handpicked Experiences, this novel wine-tasting event – aptly chosen for the introduction to guests and a few journalists of exclusive wines from Arendsig (Robertson Valley) and Journey’s End (outside Somerset-West) which are mainly available directly from the estate and in restaurants – ensured a thoroughly enjoyable, memorable weekend.
All agreed that the setting of this secluded four-star retreat in the Mthethomusha Game Reserve must rank as one of the most beautiful in the country. Perched high on massive granite rocks overlooking the southern part of the Kruger National Park, it offers spectacular vistas of endless rolling hills as far as the eye can see. No sooner had we been shown to our spacious and comfortable rooms – around which beautiful young nyala grazed unperturbed – than we took to the bush for our first game drive, followed by the first wine tasting.
The abundance of game, ranging from a big herd of elephant (including a very protective big daddy who showed his displeasure at the human intruders by ominously flapping his ears far too close for comfort), rhino, various buck species, giraffe and eagles elegantly soaring high above, set the perfect ambience for the wine tasting.
On top of a massive granite rock, in the glow of a late winter/early spring sunset and amid a feast of snacks, marketing and brand manager Colyn Truter, who represents a number of boutique wineries locally and abroad, introduced Journey’s End’s amiable winemaker, Leon Esterhuizen.
In turn, on behalf of Arendsig owner and winemaker Lourens van der Westhuizen, Colyn introduced some handcrafted Arendsig wines, including its excellent Chardonnay and Shiraz.
With awards from across the globe, a Platter’s Guide five-star Chardonnay and Top Producer at the Michelangelo International Wine Awards (2011) under his belt, Esterhuizen has, since he joined Journey’s End as winemaker in 2004, created a fine selection of vintages that more often than not draw comparison with some of Bordeaux’s best.
The three wines served to the invited guests and journalists all received a thumbs up: The Weather Station Sauvignon Blanc, the estate’s third sauvignon blanc production, picked and pressed early in the morning to retain as much flavour as possible, followed by a fermentation process of 20 to 25 days and bottled another six months later; Journey’s End 2012 Chardonnay from vines planted against the wind, blending morning and afternoon sun grapes that result in a combination of tropical fruit and citrus flavours; and a divine 2009 Merlot from a vineyard block planted next to an eucalyptus forest on the estate, which captures some of the eucalyptus flavour through the oil emanating from the decomposed leaves that blow into the vineyard.
By no means a connoisseur, but always appreciative of a glass (or two) of good wine, my favourite was The Weather Station. Upon our return to the lodge, the fun and laughter continued when a delectable boma dinner was served, together with more exclusive wines, and small talk was exchanged around a huge fire until the cows came home.
Like the Arendsig Chardonnay introduced at the earlier tasting, the unique Arendsig Inspirational Batch 1, made from 40-year-old Chenin Blanc vines and the grapes brought in from the Rawsonville district, the 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (yummy with the ostrich steaks) and the naturally sweet Viognier dessert wine (also perfectly complementing the divine passion fruit cheese cake served for dessert), got the nod across the board.
Those brave enough to face the icy wind long before daybreak on the Saturday morning were treated to a magnificent sunrise and yet another feast of gameviewing. Yet once more, we stood in awe of the grandeur of the spectacular clusters and combinations of granite rocks.
After a hearty breakfast back at the lodge, food and beverage manager Francois Scheepers took us on a brief tour of the lodge, including the Mandela Room, the viewing deck and swimming pool area. Constructed against a magnificent backdrop, the latter two are a favourite venue for small, intimate weddings. Then it was off on a short excursion to view some of the Bushmen paintings that abound in the Bongani area.
Built 28 years ago, Bongani Mountain Lodge (like Handpicked Experiences, part of the integrated tourism group Tourvest) is a favourite bushveld destination for both local and foreign visitors, particularly Germans, Danes and Italians, he informed us.
Previously the lodge’s luxurious presidential suite, but currently housing a well-stocked library cum TV room with board games where old and young can chill out and adorned with Mandela paintings by local artist Richard Maweni, the Mandela Room hosted Madiba in 1994 while he was campaigning in Mpumalanga. Just around the corner, close to unit 20, a lion lurked and killed an unsuspecting nyala, Scheepers revealed. No wonder that after dark guests are not allowed to stroll around or walk to the restaurant or boma without being accompanied by a guide.
On the Saturday afternoon another thrilling game drive and the second winetasting of the weekend followed, again to much acclaim. Despite dense smoke resulting from the burning of fire breaks in the Kruger, which somewhat obscured the view, some more excellent Arendsig and Journey’s End wines were introduced. This time the Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon from both producers emerged as firm favourites.
* The next wine tasting weekend at Bongani Mountain Lodge (November 8-10) will be with the wine makers of Druk my Niet and Bloemendal Estate. www.handpicked.co.za/ 087 845 0500 - Saturday Star