East London - Imagine building a magnificent home on your farm for the purpose of entertaining British officers after the Anglo-Boer War. You never live in it. Meanwhile, the adjoining stables house a string of handsome horses in plush comfort. This is the background to Dwarsvlei, on the road between Middelburg and Graaff-Reinet.
In the early 1900s military men arriving at Dwarsvlei must have gasped in delight. That was certainly my first reaction. Silver-barked poplars frame the long, winding driveway, their twisted branches showing off their own art form. The Rhenosterberg range completes the scene.
Across manicured lawns stands the elegant house. Given its pedigree, it could look haughty and intimidating. Instead, it has a welcoming air. Manager Nicky Enslin came out to greet me. As I raved about the driveway, he said: “You should see it in summer. It is like an oasis in the middle of the dry surroundings.”
The main bedroom was one of the biggest I have slept in. Surely it was once a ballroom? Even the en-suite bathroom was vast. The front veranda sported elegant pillars – a perfect place to sit and savour the sweeping gardens which, in summer, apparently have a glorious display of roses. Enormous lounges with fat sofas were equally inviting. There are high ceilings, a sweeping staircase and an upstairs billiard room. The house sleeps just eight people, so no one can complain of being cramped.
Dinner, prepared by Nicky – who proved to be a dab hand in the kitchen – was taken in the large dining room, while breakfast was served on the front veranda. Nicky allows guests to choose where they would like to dine. In your bedroom? No problem. I suspect if you asked to dine on the rooftop, under the stars, he would make it happen.
Clearly an animal lover, he has 11 cats, six dogs and a pet sheep, all of which add to the atmosphere.
A walk was first on the cards. Back down that amazing drive-way, towards the now derelict stables, which once housed 270 horses, the most famous of which was Greatorex – who is buried on the farm. Apparently this super stud was South Africa’s champion sire between 1911 and 1914, then between 1917 and 1922. His masculine duties brought in a tidy £100 000 for his owner.
About 700 horses, all thoroughbreds, were spread across three farms: Dwarsvlei, Kalkfontein and Rietfontein, on the Orange River.
Totally intrigued about the original owner, I scurried back to learn more. As Nicky told something of the history of Dwarsvlei, while we sat on the veranda, I swear the more than 100-year-old trees in the garden leaned closer – to check if he had his facts right. They, after all, had seen it all unfold…
While owner Henry Nourse never lived on Dwarsvlei, he often paid surprise visits. “The ground in front of every stable had to be raked every morning and afternoon,” said Nicky. If Nourse found even the smallest blade of grass, he would pick it up and walk around with it clearly displayed in his hand, so the farm manager could see this failure to keep the stables ship-shape.
“It’s said he once asked why there was so little hay in one of the stables. The quick-thinking manager said it was because it was the stable for the smallest mare,” said Nicky. “That night he made sure the smallest horse was put in that stable.” Sure enough, first thing the next morning the pernickety Nourse checked to see which horse was sleeping there.
Chatting to one of the elderly staff members, I learned that while Greatorex had a stable fit for a king, there was not always room for the stable-hands and some slept in the bushes.
In addition to the horses, there were Merino sheep, stud Jersey cattle, and even pure-bred chickens. The extensive vegetable garden and fruit orchard supplied the town of Middelburg.
Nourse’s father was a naval officer, and one of his uncles was at one-time commander of the Simon’s Town Naval Station. Besides being one of the world’s most noted horse-breeders (not only was his stud the largest in the southern hemisphere, it was one of the largest in the world), Nourse was a great sportsman, a fine soldier and a mining magnate. Nourse Mine in Gauteng still bears his name; and he was chairman of the SA Olympic Games Council for more than 20 years.
During the Anglo-Boer War he raised an irregular force, Nourse’s Horse. A memorial plate to them is located in the crypt of St Paul’s Cathedral in London.
As a military man, Nourse built his classy pad to entertain his officer friends based at Grootfontein, Middelburg – where about 7 000 British troops were stationed during the Anglo-Boer War. Many stayed on when it ended. The modern-day sitting room was once a dance floor, with sprung floors. Not that it got much use, as the house was completed only in 1910. Shortly afterwards, the military left.
Old houses often are home to intrigue. Dwarsvlei was duly sold after Nourse’s death. It seems the new owner and his business partners were accused of salting a gold mine, and spent five years in prison.
In 1963 it was bought by a John van Lingen. As the previous owners all lived in Joburg, van Lingen and his family were the only ones to reside there. His descendants, Andrew and Wendy van Lingen also live on a farm outside Steynsburg, but travel to Dwarsvlei on a regular basis. Meanwhile, Nicky holds the fort.
Andrew, who was there on the afternoon of my visit, took me for a drive around the farm. He said, kudu were again taking up residence on the vast rolling lands; and he had, one day, seen 40 of these graceful antelope.
In the late afternoon the bare trees stood silhouetted against a salmon pink and duck egg blue sky, while the mountains were tinged in hues of pinkish mauve. Peering out of the window at night, the sight was of a full silver moon. I made my wish: a return in summer or when autumn splashes the trees in colourful splendour.
Contact 049 842 2611, [email protected]. - Sunday Tribune