Sabyasachi was the first Indian designer to showcase his couture collection on social media, years before the pandemic.
The designer continues to do so each time he releases a new line of clothing, accessories or jewellery, avoiding a physical showcase at any fashion event in the country.
This season, North Calcutta's crumbling grand mansions, Venetian chandeliers, and tarnished silverware played muse and backdrop for the designer's couture showing launched on the 14th of the month.
The collection and the showcase featured an intense integrity beneath the patina of age bit in design and style.
Strong, sophisticated and self-assured. A brooding silver, dusty gold, and withering grey hand-dyed colour palette. Layering silk, wool, velvet, and tulle creates a textured depth. Handcrafted old-world zardozi, printed vintage florals, and artisanal embroidery add drama.
Sabyasachi's Couture 2022 honours the timeless elegance of nonchalant glamour.
“The glamour of Calcutta. I can’t put a finger on it... it’s almost sexual and slightly dark. It comes from the very private chambers of the mind,” says the designer.
“Fading sunlight through dusty chandeliers - the old palaces of Calcutta are mesmerising. Smoky colours with glints of gold and silver that carry the veneer of the timeless.
“The old homes of North Calcutta might be decrepit and crumbling. But as you walk through its narrow and overcrowded alleyways, they stand with an inherent dignity through their battle with time.
“Maybe it’s the sobriety of experience or the wisdom of the ages - but they remain silently imposing and mysteriously beautiful.”
Here’s a look at what the designer presented:
- A hand-dyed tulle lehenga embroidered with sequins, bevel beads and crystals with an embroidered tulle dupatta made for a perfect cocktail ensemble. The sleeves were detailed with bevel beads, hand-cut sequins and trimmed with hand-dyed wool.
- A hand-dyed portrait gown layered with embroidered tulle and embellished with bevel beads, and sequins. Paired with diamond earrings from Sabyasachi Fine jewellery and the craft edition of the Royal Bengal Minaudiere by Sabyasachi Accessories.
- A hand-dyed tulle sari embellished with bevel beads, semi-precious stones, crystals and sequins with an embroidered sequin blouse and jacket. Paired with statement jewellery from Sabyasachi High Jewellery’s Tropic of Calcutta and Heritage Collection and the craft edition of the Royal Bengal Minaudiere by Sabyasachi Accessories.
- A tulle portrait gown embroidered with hand-dyed silk velvet applique, sequins and crystals. Layered over a printed velvet slip. Paired with statement jewellery from Sabyasachi High Jewellery’s Tropic of Calcutta and Heritage Collection and the craft edition of the Royal Bengal Minaudiere by Sabyasachi Accessories.
- A hand-dyed layered tulle kurta embroidered with sequins. With a hand-embroidered sharara and dupatta. Paired with statement jewellery from Sabyasachi High Jewellery’s Tropic of Calcutta and Heritage Collection.
- A hand-dyed tulle kurta with embroidered cutwork edging and a printed velvet pyjama and bralette. Paired with the craft edition of the Royal Bengal Minaudiere by Sabyasachi Accessories.
- A tulle kurta embroidered with bevel beads, hand-cut sequins and trimmed with hand-dyed wool and an embroidered tulle dupatta. Paired with the Bengal Tiger Medallion drop earrings from Sabyasachi Fine Jewellery and the craft edition of the Royal Bengal Minaudiere by Sabyasachi Accessories.
- Featuring a hand-dyed tulle sari embroidered with silk velvet applique, sequins and semi-precious stones. Paired with a statement necklace from Sabyasachi High Jewellery's Heritage Collection and the Firpo Pochette by Sabyasachi Accessories.
- A hand-dyed lehenga embroidered with sequins and an embroidered tulle veil. Paired with statement jewellery from Sabyasachi High Jewellery’s Heritage Collection.
- A hand-dyed tulle sari embroidered with sequins, semi-precious stones and crystals and a printed velvet bikini blouse. Paired with jewellery from Sabyasachi Fine Jewellery’s Bengal Tiger collection.
- A hand-dyed tulle lehenga embroidered with sequins and semi-precious stones. Paired with the craft edition of the Royal Bengal Minaudiere by Sabyasachi Accessories.
- A hand-dyed tulle sari embroidered with sequins and semi-precious stones. Paired with diamond drop earrings from Sabyasachi Fine Jewellery.
- A hand-dyed tulle portrait gown embroidered with bevel beads, hand-cut sequins and trimmed with hand-dyed wool. Paired with the craft edition of the Royal Bengal Minaudiere by Sabyasachi Accessories.